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For most men, shopping off the rack is quite a daunting task and buying your first custom suit is just as intimidating. When it comes to custom clothing, there are plenty of decisions to make and even with the guidance of a consultant, you won’t get the most out of your experience if you’re not equipped with the basics. When it comes to building a suit from scratch, you are essentially creating your own custom suit and knowing how to go bespoke will be the major difference between having buyer remorse and becoming an avid fan.
Having worked with custom suits for some time now — and having a love for a beautifully crafted garment — I have picked up a few tips on how to go bespoke. Here are the three key areas you should pay attention to when you delve into the world of custom suits.
Jacket
Shoulders. The shoulder line of your jacket should follow the shape of your shoulders, ie., regular, slope or square. When done properly, the jacket will sit effortlessly on your shoulders, without any twisting or indentations and the front panel of your jacket will be balanced. The padding on the shoulder should end right at the tip of the shoulder, not before and not past.
Waist. When buying a custom suit, make sure the waist on your jacket tapers at the smallest part of your body. The top button on a two-button jacket and the middle button on a three-button jacket should button at your natural waistline.
Chest. To achieve a streamlined silhouette, your custom suit jacket should hug your chest and contour the natural shape of your chest. When buttoned, you should be able to slip your hand in between your jacket lapel and chest without any pulling.
Sleeve. Make sure your jacket sleeve drapes smoothly down form your shoulder point and tapers toward the cuff. It should end at the base of our thumb and be short enough to show about ¼” to ½” of shirt cuff.
Length. Proportion is key when it comes to a custom suit jacket’s length. Traditionally, the jacket length should be half of your total body measurement. For a more contemporary look, your jacket length can be slightly shorter, but make sure it covers your seat at all times.
Pants
Silhouette. The best thing about a custom suit is that every part of it should fit like it was made just for you. When customizing your pants, the silhouette of your pants should slightly contour the shape of your leg and be balanced with the shape of your jacket.
Rise. Your pant rise should fall right below your crotch. Too long, and it will be awkward for you to move in, not to mention aesthetically unpleasing. Too short, and they’ll be a very uncomfortable fit.
Length and Bottom. Length is definitely a personal preference, but generally a medium break is best; it should fall about ½” above the heel on the back of your shoe. Pant bottom is always proportionate to your break. For a medium break, the opening should be just wide enough to cover the top of your shoe. If you want to go shorter, then the bottom will be proportionately smaller and vice versa.
Details
Fabric and Lining. One of the most important elements of your custom suit is the fabric. Make sure you go with 100% natural fibers like wool, cashmeres, mohair, silk, etc. When it comes to the lining of your suit, don’t be afraid to have a little fun and go with a contrast color lining. This little detail is the make of a custom suit.
Subtle Details. Some details that are synonymous with custom clothing is hand pic stitching along your lapels, hand finished buttonholes, horn or corrozo buttons, functioning buttonholes on sleeves and monogramming. As you get more familiar with the process, I’m certain you will come up with some signature details of your own and really make it a custom suit!
Going bespoke for the first time does not have to be intimidating. To start, visit a tailor, and they’ll be happy to explain what will work for you. Companies like A Suit That Fits also offer free consultations, where you’re welcome to pop by and chat with the Style Advisors on what you are trying to achieve with your suits. Trust me — when you are armed with the right information, you will find the process of custom tailoring to be quite enjoyable.
Are you going bespoke with your suits? Let me know your experience!
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